Monday, February 28, 2011

Cómo puede uno ciudad tener tantos lugares hermosos - al mismo tiempo natural y hecho por hombre!



No shortage of things to do or see in Barcelona, that's for sure! I started out at 10:00 Friday with a walk down La Rambla, the most famous (and subsequently touristy) street in Barcelona. My favorite place there, of course, is La Boqueria, the huge food market. I mean, the Mercado Central here in Zaragoza is OK, but this place was insane. They had fruit I have never heard of - I bought a piece of what I think was dragonfruit that was conveniently cut in half and wrapped up with spoon. Perfect snack on the beach later.

After the ramble down La Rambla, I found the Gothic Quarter, and thoroughly explored all of its treasures, including the underground centuries-old ruins of a Roman domus, winery, and dye shop. I told my new Italian acquaintances later how strange I thought it was to have Roman ruins in practically all of the major cities in Spain. Of course, they said 'if you want to see Roman ruins, go to Rome,' which I will do.

I made my way to Barceloneta, the old fishing town, for lunch on the beach. One word: guacamole. I thought it was a Mexican thing, but apparently the Spaniards are fond of the yummy green goo as well. The sand on the beach was odd and sticky. My hostel roommate told me the beaches are fake - built for the 1992 Olympics - but I looked it up later and found that the beach I was on is actually natural. Wonder why the sand was like that then...

The roommate and I went to a Rick-Steves-approved Catalan restaurant Friday night, and I guess the stew was good but there is no telling what kind of meat was in it. New food strategy: close my eyes before trying things in order to taste impartially. I accidentally ate baby goat at the taste test experiment last Thursday because I had no clue what it was. Anyway, the patatas bravas at this place were the best I've had so far. They are basically fried potato wedges drenched in spicy tomato sauce that reminds me of Zax Sauce, which goes to show that not ALL American fast food is bad:)

Saturday was a nice juxtaposition of Gaudí's creations and the natural wonder of Montjuic (a mountain practically in the middle of the city). Sagrada Família is epic - no wonder it is a World Heritage Site. The outside is covered in intricately carved sculpture, and a lot of the architecture outside and inside is inspired by nature, such as the 'canopy' of columns in the main part. It is supposed to actually be finished by 2026, 100 years after Gaudí's death. So basically I have to come back to Spain in 15 years. Parc Guell was originally supposed to be a suburb for the rich in 19th century Barcelona, and while that plan was a failure, the park itself is amazing, with its famous mosaic dragon and curved benches, and the grand entrance that looks like it belongs in Willy Wonka's factory. Who wouldn't want to live here?

Montjuic took less time than I thought, mostly because I chose to skip the tourist trap Poble Espanyol on the advice of Rick Steves. So glad, because then I had more time to sip sangria and enjoy the sunset from the castle at the top of the mountain with some awesome Italians. Got down the mountain just in time to see the light and music show at the Magic Fountain - no clue about the spanish, but I could guess each Disney song by the music, while having interesting life and love conversations with the Italians. Top quote of the night: 'Italians do it better!'....we shall see, in about April. Can't imagine Italy being better than this!

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

El tiempo se va rápido

I can't believe I've been here for almost a month! It's been business-as-usual around here, which I suppose is a good thing - that means I'm assimilating successfully!

Highlights of last weekend: tour of the Ambar brewery and museum. Couldn't understand a word the tour guide said, but there were conveniently located informational signage throughout. Seeing the old equipment was interesting, as was the fact that one ingredient, lupulus, is in the same family as marijuana. Definitely smelled similar, too! We didn't taste that, but we did get to taste different types of barley.

I am discovering how very bad I am at learning new languages. Maybe some people just aren't as naturally inclined; I think my problem is that I am a visual learner, so unless a word or phrase is written out, I will not remember it.

Trips to Barcelona this weekend, Madrid in March for a T-Swizzle concert, and Italy (Rome and Naples) in April.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

La paella se sirve mejor en la playa



Two days since I returned from my holiday in Valencia - I needed a vacation from the vacation! Barely had time to sit until Sunday on the beach. I met a fellow American on the train Friday who happened to be staying in the same hostel AND room as me. Small world for sure. We started the weekend off right with delicious authentic paella at a small cafe. Paella is a rice dish made in a hugh cast iron skillet with saffron, vegetables, and some kind of meat, usually seafood on the coast (ours was chicken and rabbit). After, we were able to see the Catedral and several other monuments, because in Spain things are open from 5-9. This makes more sense than the MO in America, where you practically have to skip work in order to get anything done. Or run errands on your lunch break. People here believe that meals are an event, which is definitely how it should be. Even to-go drinks and food are somewhat of an anomaly, whereas in the states the coffee barista just assumes you want your grande mochachino 'para llevar'.

Saturday we returned to the Catedral to see the 'Santo Grial' and I just know that it is the real Holy Grail. It has the most convincing story, anyway. The Catedral also has a century-old mummified arm of some saint, and a ton of really old art, some of which you can touch (never would be allowed in U.S.!). I think it's strange how Christianity in general is supposed to be about renouncing earthly riches, yet so many denominations, especially Catholocism, build huge cathedrals and basilicas filled with priceless gold and gemstone decorations. I mean, I'm glad they took the initiative to save all of those artifacts, but as for actual church, if I go it should be outside in nature - God's creation, not man's. Just seems more logical.

After the Catedral and scaling the massive Micalet tower (leg pain for 2 days after that one), we found the Mercado Central. Much much bigger than the one here in Zaragoza, and so much fresh food to choose from! I wish we had one back home! I bought sugared figs, strawberries, and the best sweet oranges ever. We also tried horchata, a local specialty drink made from tigernut, and it was terrible - the only thing I've had so far that I absolutely do not like. Feels like powdered sugar going down your throat. I did get a laugh out of the farton, which is the doughnut-like thing you are supposed to dunk in horchata. A five-euro random wine tasting and then epically delicious tapas and cider at a cider bar (also need one of these in Athens!) made up for the bad horchata though - chorizo cooked in cider? Yes please!

The Oceanográfic is part of a huge new futuristic complex - Ciudad de las Artes y de las Ciencias. It is largest aquarium in Europe, and has a dolphin show, which was the best part. For some reason there were people at one end of the pool who apparently were competing with the dolphins. One would dive from the high dive, and then the dolphins would jump high in the air, and so on.

After a rest Saturday night, we went out on a pub crawl with people from our hostel and other hostels. Six places with a free drink at each for 15 euros? Can't turn that down! Felt kind of bad for waking up the 2 other girls in our room when we got back, but they really should expect that sort of thing in a youth hostel. Sunday we ventured to la playa (beach) to chill, and it was pretty empty until lunchtime at 2. Of course, right when we wanted to eat. Most of the massive crowd were locals, I think. They had reservations. Luckily we were able to find a table outside on the beach at one place and had delicious paella (even better than the first place). Awesome weekend - can't wait to pick my next destination!

Travel tip: Research how to find good authentic food before you go. It may not be as cheap as the chain restaurant stuff, but it's way more worth it to spend money on food experiences then useless stuff.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Más despacio, por favor

I went to my first free spanish class yesterday. There were people from all over: Syria, Morocco, Russia, England, Italy, and Nicaragua (i think that woman just wants to learn PROPER spanish). The instructor (Chatti-an appropriate name for sure) probably thinks I should be in the level 1 class, but really I just can´t understand a word she says. You would think a teacher would think to speak more slowly when teaching a class of non-speakers. Also, I find that often I have the correct answer, but either I am not enunciating clearly enough or she just can't understand my accent, or maybe she just enjoys making people feel like they are wrong. I believe she is an actress of some sort, which makes sense because she definitely looks like the Spanish Goldie Hawn, and this is only a side gig. I wonder if my spanish really is that bad or if I'm just a bad listener in this language as well. Either way, I am not used to being the slow kid in class. It's like sophomore year when I tried to take the Honors accelerated spanish class, and the teacher banned english on the first day, so I quit. Only, there is no sense of foreboding like there is with a graded university class. Really freeing, actually - I might actually learn something this way.

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Bueno, Malo, y Anticipación

Fantastic weekend in Zaragoza with new "compañeros de trabajo" aka friends from work, followed by sad news from home.

Saturday night started out with tapas, then a "salsa dance," and ended up at a discoteca that played Spanish and American music. Unfortunately, the only Spanish music I knew was Shakira's. However, dancing is a universal language:) I do think my Spanish is better when I'm talking about food and music. Ordering a mixed drink is more difficult than I thought, but "una cerveza" is generally understood. I noticed that it is cheaper to order things separately (like a shot of rum and a bottle of coke) than it is to have the bartender mix it. I wonder if it is in the U.S....

Couldn't watch the super bowl sunday night, but I did experience a British futbol match at an Irish pub. I feel like I will be going there at least once a week because it's the only place I can really blend in, provided I don't open my mouth.

Bad news about the family dog Monday, and also less-than-perfect news about mi novio's potential cross-country move. It's weird how things seem less real an ocean away, but I still had to get my mind off things with some retail therapy yesterday. I swear I went in every store in Gran Casa, and found the cheapest, best bag at the very last one. Since I now have a bag in which my camera actually fits, I am ready to tour!

I was looking at Madrid for this weekend's trip, but the hostel I picked booked up since yesterday. I heard that paella, the traditional Spanish dish, originated in Valencia, which is on the (warmer) coast, so that is my likely destino. Found a hostel with a girls-only dorm, no bunk beds, free breakfast, and great reviews after 2 hours of surfing the website, and also a train ticket. I like spontaneity, but not TOO much. (Athens friends, feel free to laugh at this)

Travel tip: slower trains, or the bus = half the price of the high-speed trains, and let's be honest, you could probably use the 4 hours of sleep.

Friday, February 4, 2011

´´La experiencia es más importante que el trabajo´´


First day of 'work' yesterday and this is what Luis tells me. Technically, I'm supposed to be researching articles on local food chains in the US and UK, but I don't think I actually have to turn in anything. It's really great having British guys working here as well, just in case I need a break from the mindmelt that is Spanish conversation. We found an Irish pub, which is actually run by a Scot named Scott, and played trivia. Sadly, I could only stay for one round because I had to catch the last bus home. Luckily, roommates were still up and let me in, as I had grabbed the wrong keys that morning in my 7am fog. Hopefully all of this enhanced forgetfulness and general clumsiness is just the adjustment period. Because carrying a plastic bag full of peanut butter, pringles, and postcards into an irish pub at 19:00 screams 'i'm a tourist.'

Travel tip: never buy an international cell phone/sim card before you actually arrive at your destination, because you will probably get the wrong thing and feel bad about having made your friends pay long-distance rates because your number is not actually spanish.

Thursday, February 3, 2011

Las primeras observaciones


I got off to a bad start Monday - lost bag at the airport and lost me at the train station and running on 2 hours of sleep. Might have had a small breakdown at airport following a taxi driver's refusal to take my card, but I'm chalking that up to the sleep-deprivation. I explored my neighborhood yesterday; everything is within a 5-minute walk. No need for giant SUVs in Europe! I live with a couple who actually just moved in the apartment last week. They speak OK english and I speak OK spanish, so we meet in the middle somewhere between "WiFi" and "WeeFee". Victor likes to cook when he and Arlen get home at 10:00. I said I would try anything, so I had to eat "el pulpo" last night. Not so bad if you don't think about it.

I took the bus to the downtown area today to buy a laptop adapter and see the sights. I had some cafe con leche and tortilla sin cebolla at a small cafe at la Plaza del Pilar and attempted to talk to the guy working there. Too bad the only english phrases he knows are "my name is" and "which liquor?". I said "esperare' por tu" and apparently he heard "espiritu." I guess ordering a "spirit" at noon is the norm around here.

My room smells like spilled hair products, necesito aire fresco!